So today i took it to a local land rover specialist and the said it must be super locked so he took the back door of and cut the lock he then put a new lock in the door and tried it again and it super locked it straight away but luckily the door... Evening all im having a night mare with my drivers door ive had a lock smith round to try and get the door open and he just butchered the lock and left with out solving any thing.
Among the list of adaptations we have the panic bars, lock sets, lock boxes, deadbolts, mortise locks, bump-proof locks to name a few these adaptations are what are at this time used in properties and houses. After your drill out the rivet’s preserving the old/bad actuator to door panel you will need the gm 1/4 door lock actuator rivet when installing new actuator/actuators. this door lock motor went into a 99 silverado that had power nothing and I made it work on the drivers door, with my avital 4113 far flung birth remote. I notion this land rover discovery door lock actuator become very good.
One of the rear door’s central locking failed to unlock the door, though it would lock it correctly, requiring the locking lever to be pulled up the last bit of its travel manually to open the door. Curiously, the way the lock mechanism works, the door would open to its anti-burst position with the locking lever in its partially up position, but would not open beyond that second catch (roughly 1/2″ open). This time, I had a couple of spare locks in the garage from a broken vehicle, so I just used a spring from one of them. Land Rover don’t sell the spring separately because they want you to buy an expensive complete lock assembly.
This is a step by step guide on how to do it. The door in question was the rear left door of my Range Rover Classic, and there are slight differences to the other locks: obviously they have to be symmetrical from left to right for opposite... This can result in the central locking failing either to lock or to unlock the door, with the internal lever in the top of the door trim being needed to operate the locking mechanism. Normally, the failure will result in the lock actuator still moving (which is what makes the noise) and trying to operate the door lock, but the lock lever doesn’t move through its full range. This spring pushes an arm on the lock, operated by rods from the central locking actuator and the vetical interior lever, to either end of its arc of movement, locking or unlocking the latching mechanism. The latching function still works normally if the locking lever is operated manually, though on very worn locks it may need to be held up for opening. On a later Range Rover, this involves removing the collar around the vertical lock lever, the backing panel around the internal latch lever and the main handle insert in the arm rest. I haven’t worked on a Discovery rear door, but I’m prepared to assume that they use a lock similar to the front right door. With the grab handles, latch handle trim and vertical lever collars removed, the main door trim can now be pulled away from the door.
