Eurospare Tie Rod End

  This is a step by step guide on how to do it.   The door in question was the rear left door of my Range Rover Classic, and there are slight differences to the other locks: obviously they have to be symmetrical from left to right for opposite...   This spring pushes an arm on the lock, operated by rods from the central locking actuator and the vetical interior lever, to either end of its arc of movement, locking or unlocking the latching mechanism.   This can result in the central locking failing either to lock or to unlock the door, with the internal lever in the top of the door trim being needed to operate the locking mechanism.   Normally, the failure will result in the lock actuator still moving (which is what makes the noise) and trying to operate the door lock, but the lock lever doesn’t move through its full range. With the grab handles, latch handle trim and vertical lever collars removed, the main door trim can now be pulled away from the door.   On a later Range Rover, this involves removing the collar around the vertical lock lever, the backing panel around the internal latch lever and the main handle insert in the arm rest.   I haven’t worked on a Discovery rear door, but I’m prepared to assume that they use a lock similar to the front right door.   The latching function still works normally if the locking lever is operated manually, though on very worn locks it may need to be held up for opening.

Don Many rat rodders don't understand mainstream people who spend 30-80,000$+ on a vehicle that is slow and underperforming. Or those who don't want to accept the idea of cheap power that is much faster than something costing 500-1,000% of the price.